This guy looks totally with it and the picture of control and coolness. I am sure there were a lot of wipe outs and hours in the water that lead up to this picture, but this is what I dream about--just being there; doing well, and enjoying it.
I on the other hand, I feel almost exclusively like this guy:
This guy looks like he just bit off way more than he could chew and it anything by calm, cool and composed. In reality he is probably an awesome surfer, but I feel like this right now most of the time. I am way in over my head and about to get pummeled because of my hubris thinking I could take on such an insane task as life.
I guess the lesson to be learned is that you have to face your demons and take a pummeling before you get to that place of peace and unrivaled skill. Keep at it my friends and enjoy the view.


No comments:
Post a Comment